A fence defines a graveyard better than almost any prop, and PVC keeps it cheap and light. Most of what you need, from PVC pipe to spray paint made for plastic, is easy to order online. Pair it with the graveyard scene you are planning, or use it to frame the gothic cemetery gate.

What do you need for a PVC cemetery fence?

Acme Tools published a build that produces twelve pickets per fence section. Its materials list is short:

• Four 1/2-inch by 10-foot PVC pipes, cut into twelve 36-inch pieces
• Three 1x2x8-foot boards and one 1x4x8-foot board
• One pound of #6 x 3/4-inch self-drilling metal stud screws
• A drop cloth or plastic tarp to protect the work area
• Black spray paint for plastic and copper spray paint for the aged-iron look

The tools it uses are a PVC shear (or any PVC cutter), a drill with a 7/8-inch hole saw or Forstner bit, a 1/8-inch bit for pilot holes, an impact driver, clamps, a miter saw, a tape measure and a square. A ratcheting PVC cutter gives clean cuts without a power saw.

How do you build the fence step by step?

1. Cut the pickets. Cut the four 10-foot PVC pipes into twelve 36-inch pieces.
2. Mark the rail. On one 1x2x8-foot board, mark hole centers at 8-inch intervals, starting 4 inches from the end.
3. Drill the holes. Drill 7/8-inch holes on the marks. Clamp the other 1×2 boards under it and use the first board as a template so every rail matches. Wrap tape around the bit to mark the depth.
4. Add pilot holes. Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes from the side of each rail so the wood does not split when you screw it.
5. Thread the pickets. Lay the rails on edge, insert the PVC, and leave about 5 inches exposed at the bottom.
6. Screw the rails to the pipes. Secure the bottom rail with self-drilling screws, then attach the top and middle rails.
7. Cut the tops. Mark twelve triangular tops from the 1×4 board with 45-degree cuts, drill a 2-inch-deep hole in each with the Forstner bit, then fit them over the pipe ends.
8. Paint it. Paint the whole fence black, then apply copper for a rusted effect. Acme’s tip is that the fence should look aged, so an uneven coat is fine.

Is there a cheaper foam-topped version?

Yes. A Bowling Green Daily News project by Kim Mason builds ten sections with 1/2-inch PVC pickets, furring strips for rails, cut foam finials made from cardboard templates, and hammered-finish black spray paint. The article reports about $17.70 per section at the prices that were current when it ran, so use that as a ratio rather than a quote; today’s prices will differ. Mason’s tips are worth borrowing: slip an old sock over your hand and dip it in paint to coat pipes quickly, and water dry ground first so the 1-inch anchor pipes go in more easily.

How do you anchor and store the fence?

Acme lists three ways to mount a section: rebar, stacking sections against each other, or bracing. It also notes that several sections arranged together support one another, and that the design is easy to disassemble and store. Neither source gives wind ratings, so treat a fence on an open lawn as a gusty-night risk and check our notes on keeping outdoor props weatherproof before leaving it out.

How can you make it look like old iron?

Black over copper is the sourced finish, and it works because PVC on its own looks like plumbing. Add a pair of foam tombstones behind the line, or follow our foam tombstone guide to make your own.

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